The Foveon hadn't been in our hands since our early fascination with theįirst Foveon camera, the Sigma SD9. Some interesting things about your camera(s).Our Digital Sensor Part 1 and Digital Sensor: PartĢ articles got us thinking again about the state of the Foveon To find where the camera(s) render a white image. Try an additional experiment by varying the exposure 1 stop at a time Your monitor and then shoot the image with both cameras. Image in Photoshop or any drawing program, expand it to full size of Both cameras will give youĪ clean well saturated image if you properly expose for the subject.Īlso exposing on a black frame with the SD14 will yield exactly what Surprising as they have different sensors. The two cameras behave very differently which is not Well saturated where the SD14 image is well saturated and the color The SD10 image may be cleaner but it is not color correct and is not Looking at both RAW files I don't think you have a defective SD14. Incamera exposure on your SD14 to -4 EV and perhaps even -5. Original conditions I think you'll find that your pushing the Then shoot the image with both cameras at that setting and My suggestion to you is meter the subject to get the correctĮxposure. You're using either Photoshop or Photoshop Elements you will need ACRĤ.1 or above if you're converting SD14 files. Should be able to clean the image up fairly well in Photoshop BTW if When printed from a saved jpeg/tiff at the 0 setting. Second, a hardcopy will show little if any noise First, the pine cone color isĬloser to reallife I have a backyard full of them so I know what I'm Looking at both images I'd prefer using the SD14 image if I were to According to SPP you were exposing the frame at an EV Settings you definitely have much more noise throughout the image on SPP2.3 on a calibrated monitor with processing both files to X3F 0 I just downloaded your pine cone RAW files for both cameras. In any case,Ĭolor correction is much more easy and less damage original image But let's think that SD14 not, if you want. Neither image is that good and you previously stated you were looking for DR boundaries and picture quality wasn't the objective.Ībout color correction and noize reduction: Both images needs colorĬorrection. Yes, SD14 pictue is really more detailed and saturated than SD10, I suspect the noise your seeing could be in the IR and/or RF spectrum when shooting with the lens cap on. While I am surprised at the low noise level of the SD10 with the lens cap frame the SD14 image is representative of that kind of test. We can saturate image in Photoshop as much as we want. My monitor was also calibrated.Ībout saturation: we can move saturation controller in RAW converterĪs we want. Just be certain to expose the image(s) correctly so that a 0 setting in SPP will yield what you see.Ībout colors: there were deep blue background on this image. Scan them or photograph them and post 100% crops. But I do not know how to send them via internet SD10 image You will get the feedback your seeking plus you'll also learn the DR and optimum exposure value for an HDR scene.Ībout noize, and hardopies. If you wish to achieve a more reallife representation try shooting a grayscale calibration target. The sensor data is processed onboard and then you process the RAW data further to get an image and you assume the resulting image is exactly what you shot. And it shows what we will see in SD14 shadows when shooting This test just get us ability to see shadows of our The post was about Low SD14 Dynamic range in comparation The post was about high sensor noize of SD14, which higher The post was not about poor image quality Only comparing underexposing images can tell us something about noise I wrote in my first message with images, that both of them are
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